Easy DIY elegant, modern coffee table


1 of 640 x 1240mm 16mm SupaWood – top

1 of 600 x 1200mm 16mm SupaWood – base

1 of 450 x 600mm 16mm SupaWood – divider

1 of 550 x 600mm 16mm SupaWood – shelf

2 of 70 x 1200mm 16mm SupaWood – front panel

2 of 70 x 632mm 16mm SupaWood – side panel

4 of 69 x 69 x 536mm PAR pine – legs

2 of 44 x 44 x 1800mm lengths of PAR pine – crossbeams

4 x 35mm screws

5 x 75mm screws

6 steel corner braces plus 16mm screws

Wood glue

Wood filler


Drill / Driver plus assorted bits

Mitre saw or mitre box and backsaw

Wood chisel

Sander plus 120- and 240-grit sandpaper

Router or Dremel Trio and decorative bit

Tape measure and pencil


Note: All sections are pre-drilled with 3mm countersunk pilot holes unless otherwise specified.




1. To start there are a few pieces that need to be cut and routed. Use a jigsaw to cut out 69mm x 69mm squares for mounting the legs.


2. After cutting the corners, make a mark at the centre of the cut-out (on the long side) to drill a 4mm pilot hole that 75mm deep.


3. If you want to add a decorative edge on the base panels and top,  use a Dremel Trio or Router and decorative bit.


4. Use a tape measure and pencil to draw a line 217mm from the top and bottom of the divider. Use as a guide to mount the shelf with 45mm screws.


5. Also measure and draw a line on both sides of the base at 550mm and 566mm in on the shelf side and use this as a guide for attaching the base to the divider.


. To attach the legs to the side with the shelf measure and mark all the way around the leg at 70mm and 86mm, and 303mm and 319mm – also mark the centre point (34.5mm)  at the front of each leg. Repeat this on the remaining legs but only draw a 70mm and 86mm line with a centre mark at the front.

On the marks drill a 10mm deep hole with a 10mm wood bit. Use the drawn lines as a guide to mount the legs to the base and shelf with 75mm screws.


7. The top has a 20mm overlap around the edge. Secure the top to the legs and divider with 45mm screws.


8. Attach the base front and back panel to the legs and repeat with the side panels.



Attach steel angle braces along underneath the base to secure the front, back and side panels along the length.


9. For the cross pieces cut 4 x 650mm lengths of 44 x 44mm pine. Working one length at a time, cut a 42-degree angle at the top. The length is still too long, so place this against the side of the table to mark for the correct length and cut at a 42-degree angle. Repeat this for all legs.

Keep the cross pieces together in pairs for the two sides to know which piece fits where when putting the sections together.


This method ensures exact lengths and cutting angles, as a few millimeters here and there in the assembly can make a lot of difference when fitting the cross pieces.


10. Place one pair  in place in the side to mark the points where the two

beams intersect and mark the top and bottom with a pencil line. Repeat this for the other side.


11. To ensure a perfect overlap remove exactly half the thickness on both beams. The back beam has the top half removed and the top beam has the bottom half removed. These will then slot together to create the ‘X’ shape for the ends of the table. You can use a wood chisel to remove these sections.


12. Secure the beams with wood glue, clamp and leave overnight. Place the ‘X’ beams in place with wood glue.




  • Use wood filler on all screw holes and let this dry before sanding.
  • Use 240-grit sandpaper to smooth all cut edges.
  • Apply Plascon Wood Primer on pine sections.
  • Paint in your choice of colour using acrylic paint.



Article courtesy of EasyDIY



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Janice Anderssen

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